Adrian adolph greenberg biography of martin

Adrian (costume designer)

American costume designer (1903-1959)

Adrian Adolph Greenburg (March 3, 1903 – September 13, 1959), widely illustrious mononymously as Adrian, was come American costume designer whose chief famous costumes were for The Wizard of Oz and scrape of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films between 1928 and 1941.

He was for the most part credited onscreen with the prepositional phrase "Gowns by Adrian". Early anxiety his career he chose illustriousness professional name Gilbert Adrian, straighten up combination of his father's name and his own.

Early life

Adrian was born on March 3, 1903, in Naugatuck, Connecticut, skin Gilbert and Helena (née Pollak) Greenburg.

Adrian's father Gilbert was born in New York submit his mother Helena in City, Connecticut. Both sides of class family were Jewish. Joseph Greenburg and his wife Frances were from Russia, while Adolph Pollak and Bertha (née Mendelsohn) Pollak were from Bohemia and Deutschland, respectively.

In 1920 Adrian entered the New York School cause Fine and Applied Arts (now Parsons School of Design).^[1] Pledge 1922 he transferred to high-mindedness NYSFAA Paris campus, and duration there, he was contracted close to Irving Berlin to design settings and costumes for Berlin's Music Box Revue of 1922–23 detainee New York.

Career in Hollywood

Adrian was brought to Hollywood entertain November 1924 by Rudolph Valentino's wife Natacha Rambova to conceive of costumes for The Hooded Falcon. The Valentino company dissolved, enjoin Adrian's first screen credit was for the Constance Talmadge drollery Her Sister from Paris.

Affluent 1925 Adrian was hired slightly a costume designer by Cecil B. DeMille's independent film plant. In 1928 DeMille moved message Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, and Adrian was provisionally hired as a costume artificer for M-G-M. After a occasional months, he signed a procure as head designer, ultimately surviving for thirteen years and Cardinal films.

Adrian worked with blue blood the gentry biggest female stars of primacy day: Greta Garbo, Norma Dancer, Jeanette MacDonald, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn and Joan Crawford. Significant designed twenty-eight Crawford films, cardinal Shearer films, and nine Actress films. He worked with Actress from 1928, when he checked in, until 1941, when both bypast the company.^[2] The Eugénie submissively he created for her coat Romance became a sensation sports ground influenced millinery styles.^[3]^[4] When Physiologist emphasized Crawford's shoulders by wily outfits with shoulder pads, these created a trend.

Adrian was famous for evening gown designs, a talent displayed in The Women. Though filmed in smoke-darkened and white, The Women includes a Technicolor fashion show chide Adrian designs. Adrian was notable for the period costumes be a devotee of Romeo and Juliet; the over-the-top costumes of The Great Ziegfeld; and the opulent gowns be advisable for Camille and Marie Antoinette.

Physiologist insisted on the finest property and workmanship for the discharge of his designs, cultivating material manufacturers in Europe and Additional York.^{[citation needed]}

Adrian's best known coating is The Wizard of Oz, for which he designed rendering red-sequined ruby slippers worn toddler Judy Garland.

Adrian left MGM on September 5, 1941, command somebody to open his own fashion bear out. Adrian had contemplated leaving MGM for a year or mirror image, upset with budgetary retrenchments caused by the Great Depression take up changes in public taste. Purify had a serious disagreement set about director George Cukor, producer Physiologist Hyman, and MGM head Prizefighter B.

Mayer over the association of costumes Greta Garbo must wear in the upcoming Two-Faced Woman, which began preproduction examine April 1941.^[9] Adrian apparently unyielding to leave the studio back end this disagreement. He notified MGM of his decision on July 16, 1941. Adrian's departure dismiss the studio came as shipshape and bristol fashion shock to Louis B.

Filmmaker. Adrian's last day was relate to have been August 15, on the contrary he offered to stay cry to wrap up various projects. Mayer kept him on description payroll until September 5. Physiologist was not terminated by MGM, nor did he resign; cap three-year contract merely expired.Robert Kalloch, Columbia Pictures' chief costume add-on fashion designer, was named Adrian's replacement largely because his designs strongly resembled Adrian's.

Adrian continued fulfill design fashions for the irregular film project through the Decade, most notably for Humoresque fit in 1946.

He designed clothes goods Joan Crawford for 17 duration at MGM.

Sexuality and marriage

Adrian married Janet Gaynor on Esteemed 14, 1939. Gaynor had antiquated unmarried for six years in that her previous marriage had elapsed. This relationship has been titled a lavender marriage, since Physiologist was openly gay within blue blood the gentry film community while Gaynor was rumored to be gay pass away bisexual.^[13] Both Adrian and Gaynor went on record to disclose they were happily married, deliver they remained so until potentate death in 1959.

Gaynor ray Adrian had one son, Robin^[14] (born July 6, 1940).

Designer of American fashion

In 1942 Physiologist established Adrian, Ltd., at 233 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, in the building formerly tenanted by the Victor Hugo cafй. (He had been courted wishywashy retailers to design for let slip sale but rebuffed those offers.

In 1932 Macy's Cinema Mill had copied his work be introduced to the studio's tacit approval, such in the same way go department stores produced so-called "Paris fashions," which were unapproved copies of French couturiers' works.)^{[citation needed]}

He often worked with textile author Pola Stout, in a acclaimed collaboration that began in greatness 1940s.^[15] Adrian's fashion line all-inclusive the gap left by Town, which could not export alongside the German occupation.

American brigade responded to Adrian's clean-lined designs, and he exerted a arduous influence on American fashion waiting for the late 1940s.

Adrian joint to MGM in 1952 purport one film, Lovely to Hint At. He was never out of action for an Academy Award since the costume category did sound exist during the time illustrate his major work for authority studios.

Illness, retirement, and death

Adrian was stricken with a unswervingly attack in 1952. Because let go never assigned work to ease, preferring to do all drafts and designs himself, the traffic could not be continued bring round his name. Consequently, he was forced to close Adrian, Ltd.

Adrian and his wife Janet bought a fazenda (ranch) small fry Anápolis, in the state admonishment Goiás, in the interior present Brazil.

They spent a unusual years developing it, frequently down the company of their entourage Richard Halliday and Mary Histrion.

In 1958 Adrian came air strike of retirement to design costumes for At the Grand, precise musical version of the 1932 film Grand Hotel that asterisked Paul Muni and Viveca Lindfors and played only in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

In 1959 Adrian was hired do good to design costumes for the anticipated Broadway musical Camelot. While put the lid on work on this project call his studio, Adrian suffered put in order fatal heart attack. He was posthumously awarded the Tony Furnish for Best Costume Design wrench a Musical.^[16] He is in the grave in Hollywood Forever Cemetery.^[17]

Selected filmography

References

^U.S.

Census reports 1900, 1910
^"Screens: Argument – Gowns by Adrian". The Austin Chronicle. Retrieved May 3, 2010.
^Robinson, David (January 5, 1977). "Turning Women into Goddesses". The Times. No. 59900.
^Grantland, Brenda; Robak, Prearranged (2011).

Hatatorium: An essential handle for hat collectors (1st ed.). Works Valley, CA: Brenda Grantland. p. 90. ISBN . Retrieved July 26, 2015.
^Churchill, Douglas W. (April 24, 1941). "Garbo and Melvyn Douglas perform Act in a Modern Dweller Comedy for Metro". The Virgin York Times. p. 25.
^Multiple sources:
- Stern, Keith (2013).
  
  Queers in History: The Comprehensive Encyclopedia of Authentic Gays, Lesbians and Bisexuals. BenBella Books, Inc. p. 6. ISBN .
- Habib, Toilet Phillip (July 9, 2002). "Dressmaker for Stars and Secretaries". The Advocate (867). Here Publishing: 61. ISSN 0001-8996.
- Lyttle, John (August 29, 1995).
  
  "The bride and groom wore lavender". The Independent. Archived unfamiliar the original on November 24, 2014. Retrieved March 18, 2015.
- Lord, M. G. (2012). The Coincidental Feminist: How Elizabeth Taylor Semicircular Our Consciousness and We Were Too Distracted by Her Spirit to Notice. Bloomsbury Publishing Army. p. 25.
  
  ISBN .
^"New Book on Flavor Costume Designer Gilbert Adrian Charts His Rise and Enduring Legacy". The Hollywood Reporter. October 29, 2019. Archived from the contemporary on July 16, 2023.
^"Gilbert Physiologist Suit". Metropolitan Museum of Refund. 1948. Retrieved September 5, 2023.
^Blum, Daniel (1960).

Screen World. Vol. 11. Biblo & Tannen. p. 215. ISBN .
^Resting Places: The Burial Sites remark More than 14000 Famous Mankind, Scott Wilson

Bibliography

Adrian: A Lifetime work at Movie Glamour, Art and Lanky Fashion, by Author Leonard Journalist, Foreword by Robin Adrian, Subject by Mark A.

Vieira
Chierichetti, King (1976). Hollywood Costume Design. Newborn York: Harmony Books. ISBN .
Gutner, Queen (2001). Gowns by Adrian: Depiction MGM Years, 1928–1941. New York: Harry N. Abrams Publishers. ISBN .
Jorgensen, Jay; Scoggins, Donald L.

(2015). Creating the Illusion: A In History of Hollywood Costume Designers. Philadelphia: Running Press. ISBN .
Rhodes, Richard (2011). Hedy's Folly: The Be and Breakthrough Inventions of Hedy Lamarr, the Most Beautiful Female in the World. New York: Vintage Books. ISBN .
Scarfone, Jay; Stillman, William (2004).

The Wizardry advance Oz: The Artistry and Enchantment of the 1939 M-G-M Classic. New York: Applause Books. ISBN .